Knitting Rothko
Left: postcard of Rothko’s Untitled, 1967.
Once I made my way through the necessary high school fascination with the pre-raphaelites I fell into Rothko and never got up. I was thrilled to discover that my 5K “Random Roktho” entry, circa 2000 is still online.
I was able to knit the above with available yarn in my moderate stash and my homage to “Untitled (Black on Grey)” is almost done. There’s more to come thanks to a bit of an appalling online shopping binge for more “Rothko” colours. Onward!
Plant Pillows
The Plant Pillow is a slight variation on the open top Plant Pocket. In this version, the front and back are the same length with window where you’ll insert a few succulent cuttings.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- Yarn — I decided to use acrylic yarn for our plant pillows. Given how damp San Francisco can be, I wanted something that would be less likely to rot. For this pillow, I’ve used Red Heart Blue Tones Super Saver Economy Yarn.
- Needles — Size 8 US. I have both bamboo and plastic needles in this size and I’ve found the plastic ones easier to knit with the Red Heart yarn.
- Darning or tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Soil — we used succulent potting mix.
- Plants — three or four succulent cuttings.
- Rooting powder (optional) — makes for happy plants.
LET’S START
- Cast on 17 stitches, leaving a tail of yarn that you’ll weave in. (The final pillow will be approx. 4 inches wide.)
- The main body of the pillow is stockinette stitch. Knit the 1st row and then purl the 2nd row. Repeat this until you have 32 rows. I like to mark the 24th row with a stitch counter marker as this will be where we make the bottom fold in step no. 7.
- We’ll start creating the window on the 33rd row. Knit 5 stitches, purl the next 7, and then knit the last 5 stitches. On the next row, purl 5 stitches, knit 7, and then purl the last 5 stitches. Repeat this for a total of 8 rows. You’ll see your “window” being created.
- Return to stockinette stitch for the last 6 rows.
- Cast off — you’re done knitting the body of your plant pillow. Woot!
- Use the darning needle to weave the casting on and off ends into the purl side of the pillow. It’s best to run them down the inside edge of the pillow so it won’t be too visible in the finished pillow.
- The next step involves creating the bottom tie. Cut 6 pieces of yarn that are approx. 30 inches long. You can adjust the length of the ties to be longer or shorter if you know the circumference of where you’re going to tie your plant pillow. Put three pieces of the yarn aside for the top tie. Take the body of the plant pillow that you knit in the first step and fold it with the purl side inwards — this should be the 24th row. Take one of the pieces of the yarn and thread the darning needle. You want to loosely stitch three of the pieces of yarns through the width of the body pillow at the bottom fold. You can use the stitches themselves if you want an even look — I weave the yarn in and out every two stitches. Once you’ve tied the knot, you can clip the lose ends for a cleaner look.
- Make sure that you’ve got even “tails” of yarn on either side. Braid the three pieces of yarn together on either side and secure the ends with a tight knot. I’ve found that it helps to put something heavy on the plant pillow to hold it in place while I braid.
- We’ll stitch the sides next. Cut a length of yarn and make a big knot on one end. Thread the yarn through your needle and push the darning needle through from the inside to the outside, starting from the base of the pillow where you created the bottom tie. Holding the pieces together stitch the front to the back moving up towards the top of the pillow. If you want a tidier look, you can use the rows of yarn as your guide, creating a stitch at every row. Repeat this step, sewing the other side of the pillow.
- We’ll use the three remaining lengths of yarn that you cut previously to create the top tie. You’ll weave the three lengths through the back flap and then braid the extra length on either side as in step no. 7.
- Fill the pillow with succulent mix.
- Take another length of the yarn and stitch the top of the pillow closed. I use the stitches as a guide for an even look.
- The pillow’s complete and ready for planting.
This is the backside of the pillow.
Check out Derek’s post on Plantgasm for the next steps to complete your Plant Pillow.
Love (with apologies to Robert Indiana)
I’m not sure if this is the first (and maybe the last) in a series of pockets inspired by art, but I’ve long been a fan of Robert Indiana’s LOVE painting and sculptures.
Here’s the original stitching chart for the text:
I’d initially worked out the text on a 20 x 24 grid, but found that there were only 18 usable stitches across, hence the arrow and small changes noted on the chart. The chart also calls for background colours that are more like the Indiana’s original painting, but given my recent adventures in intarsia, I decided to go an easier route for my initial adventure.
The yarn that I used was repurposed from a very ugly hat I’d made years ago when Claire first taught me to knit. It looks very much like Red Heart Super Saver Economy Yarn Banana Berry. LOVE was crafted with Red Heart Classic Cherry Red.
Once the body of the pocket was finished, the letters were created in duplicate stitch and then stitched over again with small horizontal stitches. I realized that the letters weren’t looking as strong as I wanted, so I added a second column of stitches to the stem and beaks of the “L” and the “E”. I also added added additional stitches to the left stem of the “O” and the “V”. Does that all make sense?
I think I’m going to try and create a second with the solid blue and green colour blocks. If you’d like to make your own “LOVE” plant pocket, you can find instructions for the pocket over here. Cast on 20 stitches for the width and the “front” portion of the pocket should be at least 24 rows.
Here’s the revised chart:
Plant Pockets – GROW
It was only a matter of time before crafting words on plant pockets became something I wanted to try. After a few online searches, intarsia seemed to be a likely candidate. Boy, was I wrong as I embarked on knitting well above my grade level. I’m still very much a novice and I found myself caught well into the weeds of tangled bobbins of colours and sloppy stitches.
After graphing out the design for each letter, I decided to begin with the “o” in “grow” — as set of four pockets that we’d like to hang on the fence that surrounds the Hayes Valley Farm. “O” seemed a good place to start being rather simple in form, well, simpler than the “r” or the “w”. After completing two of the pockets with intarsiain, I realized that they just weren’t working out the way that I wanted.
Intarsia detail on the letter “O”
Julie came to my rescue tweeting about duplicate stitching, and I completed the two remaining pockets this way. There were gaps between the duplicate stitches so I went over the black with additional black yarn. I think that the pockets themselves will be more robust — the intarsia pockets don’t feel like they have the same structural integrity as a pocket that’s knitted from one continuous string of yarn. It could be that my lack of knitting experience is more to blame and perhaps when I’m more experienced, I’ll try again.
Duplicate stitching detail on the letter “G”
In the end, I think the pockets will come together once planted. I can definitely see a difference in the knitting between the four. The “g” was knitted and stitched last, and it’s the winner.
How much?
Mission, Contax T3 / Kodak Portra 160VC.
Life list: At some point I’m going to ask “how much for everything” and buy the whole shebang. Be it these inflatey beasts or a balloon seller, I want to walk away with everything. I’m still thinking through what I’m going to do from that point all. This is somewhat similar to renting a full on rabbit suit and walking up and down Market Street on any day other than Easter or Halloween – July would be a good month.
Hope
Impossible Project PX 600 Silver Shade UV+ Black Frame (Poor Pod),
Polaroid SX-70 w/ closeup lens
Hope is the thing with feathers
That perches in the soul,
And sings the tune–without the words,
And never stops at all,
And sweetest in the gale is heard;
And sore must be the storm
That could abash the little bird
That kept so many warm.
I’ve heard it in the chillest land,
And on the strangest sea;
Yet, never, in extremity,
It asked a crumb of me.
Emily Dickinson
Dandelions
Buena Vista. Canon Elan 7NE / Kodak Portra 160VC.
I can’t see a dandelion going to seed without thinking of my mother. If it wasn’t her constant battle with the ant hills that lined our drive, it was her vehement war on the weeds that dotted our lawn. One going to seed, like the one I hold in my hand, was a sure sign that someone wasn’t walking the grid, dandelion remover in hand.
Plant Pockets
Having falling in love with urban knitting, I wanted to follow up my International Yarn Bombing 2011 day adventure with something Derek and I could collaborate on. He likes to grow things and I like to knit. Bring these two things together and we came up with the idea of plant pockets. We’ve created a dozen and deployed the first two last weekend while walking down to the Mission.
Photo: Derek Powazek
I’m very much a novice knitter.* The design has changed a wee bit from pocket to pocket as I learned from the previous one. (I’m sure that all you champion knitters out there could tell me how I’m doing it wrong, and I encourage you to post your own plant pocket creations that are more better. The world needs more little gardens in our urban areas.)
The instructions below cover creation of the pocket. Please see Derek’s gardening site, Plantgasm for the planting portion of this adventure.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- Yarn — I decided to use acrylic yarn for our plant pockets. Given how damp San Francisco can be, I wanted something that would be less likely to rot. And, as we’re going to be spreading the plant pocket love around the city, I wanted to keep an eye on cost. All of the yarn is Red Heart Super Saver.
- Needles — Size 8 US. I have both bamboo and plastic needles in this size and I’ve found the plastic ones easier to knit with the Red Heart yarn.
- Darning needle – To stitch up the sides and weave the ties through the pocket.
- Scissors — For the snipping.
- Tape measure — For the measuring.
- Optional, a glass of wine — For the drinking.
OPEN POCKET – Simple
- The majority of the plant pockets that we’ve created are open at the top. There’s a closed “pillow” top version that I’ll post about in the future. The opening needs to be wide enough to hold a plant, but narrow enough to avoid sagging. I found a 4 inch width to be ideal. Cast on 17 stitches and then stockinette stitch for 9 inches (knit a row, purl a row). Once you’ve got at least 9 inches, cast off. You’ve created the body of the pocket.
- Use the darning needle to weave the casting on and off ends into the purl side of the pocket. It’s best to run them down the inside edge of the pocket so it won’t be too visible in the finished pocket.
- The next step involves creating the bottom tie. Cut 6 pieces of yarn that are approx. 30 inches long. You can adjust the length of the ties to be longer or shorter if you know the circumference of where you’re going to tie your plant pocket. Put three pieces of the yarn aside for the top tie. Take the body of the plant pocket that you knit in the first step and fold it with the purl side inwards. You want the front of the pocket to me roughly 4 inches and the back 5 inches. The cast off row has more structure than the cast on row, so I use that for the front lip of the pocket. Take one of the pieces of the yarn and thread the darning needle. You want to loosely stitch three of the pieces of yarns through the width of the body pocket at the fold. You can use the stitches themselves if you want an even look. Make sure that you’ve got even “tails” of yarn on either side. Once you’ve woven three pieces through, braid them to the end, securing them with a knot. Repeat this on the other side.
- Next up, stitching the sides. Cut a length of yarn and knot the end. Push the darning needle through from the inside to the outside, starting from the base of the pocket where you created the bottom tie. Holding the pieces together stitch the front to the back moving up towards the top of the pocket. Repeat this step, sewing the other side of the pocket.
- We’ll use the three remaining lengths of yarn that you cut previously to create the top tie. You’ll weave the three lengths through the back flap and then braid the extra length on either side.
- The pocket’s complete and ready for planting. Check out Plantgasm for tips and tricks on planting your pocket.
OPEN POCKET – Fancy
The fancy version differs only in that you tile stitch the portion that will be the front of the pocket.
- Cast on 20 stitches
- 1st row: knit 4 stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 4 stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 4 stitches.
- 2nd row: purl 4 stitches, knit 4 stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 4 stitches, purl 4 stitches.
- Repeat 1st and 2nd rows.
- 5th row: purl 4 stitches, knit 4 stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 4 stitches, purl 4 stitches.
- 6th row: knit 4 stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 4 stitches, purl 4 stitches, knit 4 stitches.
- Repeat 5th and 6th rows.
- Repeat 1st through 8th rows.
- Repeat 1st through 4th rows.
- Did you follow all that? When you’re done, you’ll end up with what looks like a basket weave with five columns and five rows. It’s pretty and adds texture to the front of the plant pocket.
- Follow steps 2 – 6 in the simple pocket above, using the bottom of the basket weave as the folding point for the base of the pocket.
* I’ve found YouTube and the myriad of great knitting videos there to be a great help. While I could remember how to knit and purl, casting on and off was a complete mystery. Much thanks to all those super knitters out there who are creating video to help people like me learn how to knit.
Heather Powazek Champ never leaves the house without a camera. A Canadian by birth, she now calls San Francisco home. More »
Home
© 1994 - 2011 Heather Champ. Powered by WordPress + DePo Skinny.